India - Dalai Lama - Bodhgaya

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Observer Magazine: Cover Story

Heaven and Hell. Buddhism's most important pilgrimage is to a squalid, dangerous town in India's poorest state. But is building a 500ft Buddha there for $150m the answer to anyone's prayers?

Fifteen thousand pilgrims and non-believers alike make the arduous journey to Bodhgaya to listen to the Dalai Lama's teachings. They come from places as far-flung as Finland, Melbourne, Trinidad, Israel, Alaska and Wales, and for two weeks transform...
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Observer Magazine: Cover Story

Heaven and Hell. Buddhism's most important pilgrimage is to a squalid, dangerous town in India's poorest state. But is building a 500ft Buddha there for $150m the answer to anyone's prayers?

Fifteen thousand pilgrims and non-believers alike make the arduous journey to Bodhgaya to listen to the Dalai Lama's teachings. They come from places as far-flung as Finland, Melbourne, Trinidad, Israel, Alaska and Wales, and for two weeks transform the area into a holier-than-thou version of Woodstock. For two weeks, the streets throng with iron-calved rickshaw drivers, serene-looking monks draped in mala beads and shuffling Westerners mumbling Om mantras under their breath

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